Svalbard... I think that might have been in the doco...? I do have a newfound longing to visit the coastal village of Å.

Svalbard. (Googles.) Longyearbyen! That was in it. -60C from memory. "Like breathing knives." It's also the spot where she finally saw them, and I don't mind saying I teared up. I'd love to go there.

I'm hoping to be in Helsinki sometime between March and May. Decided I will be there by May 5th. Once there I've got at least three months, so you'll find me asking you questions around then. :) Thanks!